After another weekend toiling with the interior bits, parts are starting to go IN the car instead of come out. That is a good feeling. Driving a gutted Chaser for the past week has been interesting. The above picture is the payoff picture. What the interior is looking like now – Bride Zeta II and Mazoria wheel in. The seat was a snap, but the wheel was more of a challenge.
The steering wheel wouldn’t pull off with hand power so a wheel/bearing puller was in order. At the hardware store, I was shocked to find they wanted 2,980yen for a puller. No thank you! I went out to the parking lot and took some measurements of the steering wheel mounting bolt in relation to the two bolt holes on the side. I matched up the thread pitch with a spare bolt and headed back inside. (Puller mounted in above picture.)
With a couple designs in mind, I looked through all the bracketry they had to offer and stumbled across this U-shaped gem. It’s two bolt holes would line up perfectly with the steering wheels’ and the bottom of the “U” could be used to push against the steering column to create the pulling effect. A shelf above the bracket, I found a pre-drilled flat piece of steel that would act as a support to hold the bracket in its correct U-shape as it was tightened down. The U-bracket’s bolt holes were about 1mm too small in diameter so I found a small six piece file set for 680 Yen. Two M8 80mm bolts later and I had my “steering wheel puller” ready to assemble for a total of 380 Yen. The picture above is post use; you can see the stress it took! I am glad I bought the flat support bracket otherwise it would have surely not worked.
The puller mounted in position and already tightened down a good amount (hence the bending). As I progressively tightened the bolts, I hit the wheel until it finally popped free of the mounting splines. With my cheap home-brew puller a success, I felt like the cock of the walk.
I then learned the value of buying a quality hub boss kit. At Autobacs, there were three hub kits of the same brand but differed based on the vehicle’s options. The staff looked at my car, read the manufacturer’s reference book, and told me which one I needed. When it came time to install it, I was pleased to find they gave me the right one and that it came equipped with all the necessary wiring deletes/modifications.
With the wiring rat’s nest gone, my back seat now looks like this. A nice change from last week. However, after sorting out the wiring situation, I now have a few questions:
1. Is there supposed to be a stock speaker amplifier under the passenger seat? If not, what are the large white wiring connectors for?
2. At the radio, what color is the signal/audio source wire for the stock subwoofer (they are red and black with white stripes at the subwoofer)? It is currently the only speaker not working.
Thanks for the help!