Minty Smash: The Best of Two into ONE! (Part 3 of a Few)

Oh, I picked this up in the middle of the build, it was dirrrrty cheap. The heart of Ga-ze-wa lives on in its chest. JUST KIDDING! Actually a local guy owns it, kinda wondering what it has been up to. Good attention getter though.

Well here we are again, ready to negotiate the next fragment of the Minty Smash build process.

Keeping in mind that I was transplanting the entire engine setup from my brother’s S14 to my S13, there were a few necessary adjustments; most were straight forward and quick to fix (quick being relative). The downpipe was just 10mm too short. The Prosport boost gauge that had called my dash home had to be removed and the AEM Truboost installed in its place (goodbye uniformity *tear*). The Truboost is a pretty rock solid little piece of hardware, no frills – just kills. Also, I had been wanting to better mount my O2 sensor gauge and new knock light below the radio which was the last place I had any room. Then it was the power steering reservoir that needed more work than one would think to allow proper clearance. Followed by a heat shield for the brake master cylinder. The wastegate dump could be reused but needed a little help from the pipe bender.

Then there were a few extras I was either able to toss on thanks to Steve [Peak Performance rear upper control arms (RUCA) and tension rods], or had purchased earlier and had yet to install [steering wheel and S14 front lower control arms (FLCA)].

I’m thinking pictures:

Downpipe extension, it was so close, but just too far.

Hello Truboost, knocklight, and O2 gauge. I was really running out of time when making the mounting bracket so it isn’t as well crafted as I would like.

The reservoir was hitting the turbo, extending one bracket and bending the other made it possible for it to clear but messed up the lower feed (see next picture).

This picture shows the 5/8 lower feed to the PS pump and how the hose is really tweaked. I cut the lower feed off the reservoir and clocked it 20 degrees or so to point straight at the engine, which alleviated the tweak in the line. Also, I wrapped some heat wrap around the turbo oil drain, but it will be coming off as it is now soaked in PS fluid. I will be finding some orange siliconized heat tube.

Before bending, the dump pipe hit the frame. One light bend later, it was good to go. This picture also shows that I was in process of switching FLCA.

Figure I don’t need to show you the FLCA install as it is super straight forward, but I will explain some of the benefits. S14 FLCA are 7mm longer each side, thus increasing your front track a total of 14mm, which reduces understeer. They also have a better roll center for a lowered S13, nothing like an aftermarket arm, but for those looking to only go reasonably low they are a vast improvement. I was also turned on to using Q45 front endlinks by a friend of mine from KCDA, one of the founders of the Kansas Yeah events, and all around good guy – Fint. The Q45 links are shorter than the 240sx’s and allow the swaybar to be located closer to a stock location.

Tension rods and RUCA are another one of those items that everyone has installed or seen installed so I don’t feel like wasting anyone’s intelligence. I will say though that when you do decide to buy RUCA, you also need to buy toe and traction rods (especially traction because there is no adjustment unlike the stock toe rod). When I got my alignment, I was trying to get the rear as close to -0.5 camber as possible, my limiting factor was the other two arms as they ran out of adjustment. One more thing, Peak Performance makes some badass arms. I know going cheap is all the rage these days (I am totally guilty), but Peak’s quality is bar-none.

Next on the docket was the steering wheel. I really didn’t ever like the the huge size of the stock wheel, so I picked up a Nardi Deep Corn and a Circuit Sports hub adapter. The hub adapter is made of billet aluminum and is super nice except it would ground my horn in the wrong place (causing the horn to go off). So, I de-pined the plug that goes in the back side of the copper pin ring. You will know what I am talking about if you have done this yourself, otherwise probably not. I then re-pinned it so the horn was connected to another copper pin that was inside the copper ring on the Circuit Sport hub adapter.

I need to buy a quick release to space the wheel out further as my hands hit the wipers and turn signals while drifting since they are so close to the wheel. *Sadface*

Pictures:

From this…

To this…da da da da (think trumpets)

Fint and I did some business and I picked up his set of MB Competition (17×9 +17) with nearly full tread Federal 595’s. They fit awesome but had some nicks in them from a lug nut tool he had to use from when they were on his RX-7.

Old and broken, but still looking good.

So I some how managed to do this in limited time…

Old but looking super HAAAWWWWTTTTT!

I remembered seeing this color on a set of Volk TE37s on Jay Pizarro’s crazy clean (now ex) S13. Wheel color inspiration (yellow lip bad idea):

That is it for this installment.

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